yg 

r**-— -* • 


STATE  NORMAL  SCHOOL 

LOS  ANGBJLES,  CALli 


D       iMB 
HOAR 


HAND-CRAFT. 
STATE  WORHAl  SCHOOL, 

llOS  ftHGEUSS,  CRU. 


DRAWING     BOOKS. 


Kindergarten  Drawing  Book.  Part  I.  Com- 
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INFANT  S'     DRAWING 

A   Varied  Occupation. 


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lengths  in  combination. 
Book  II.  Vertical  and   Horizontal   Lines,  with 

Oblique  Lines  drawn  at  Angles  of  45  Degrees. 

PEICE  TWOPENCE  EACH. 

Recommended  by  the  Science  and  Art  Department  for  Beginning 


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Instruction  in  Freehand  and  Geometry,  with  full  directions  and  space  for  working. 

PBEEHAND. 


Book  I.  Lines,  Angles,  Parallels,  Simple  Right- 
lined  Forms. 


Book  II.  Simple  Right-lined  Forms. 
Book  III.  Simple  Combinations  of  Straight  and 
Curved  Lines,  forming  familiar  Symmetrical 
Figures. 
1,'ook  IV.  More    Advanced    Combinations   of 

ii  inches  by  7$  inches,  pape 
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GEOMETBY. 
Book  I.  Lines,  Parallels,  Angles  and  Triangles 


Straight  and  Curved   Lines,  forming  Sym- 
metrical Figures. 

Books  V.  &  VI.  Fam 
of  the  Home. 

Books  VII.  &  VIII.  Stage  1 1.  of  the  Science  and 


miliar  Symmetrical  Objects 


Art  Department. 
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Shade. 
r  covers ',  Twopence  each. 


ancs, 
i  with 


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Figures  drawn  with  Rulers. 
Book  III.  Lines  and  Angles, 
liook  IV.  Drawing  to  Scale. 
Book  V.  Triangles,  Quadrilaterals,  Circles  and 

Tangents. 

Book  VI.  Polygons,    Ellipses,    Inscribed    and 
I  FIRU 


Book  VII.  Inscribed  and  Described  Figures. 
Book  VI 1 1.  Proportionals  and  Areas. 
Book  IX.  Simple   Scales,   Projection  of   Rect- 
angular Solids,  and  Plane  Figures. 

Book  X.  Ditto    (more    advanced),     and    with 
Sections. 

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*.*  A  Book  of  Specimen  Pages  of  this  Series  •will  be  forwarded  free  to  Head-Teachers  on 
implication.    Single  Copies  of  any  pfthe  Bocks  are  sent  post-jree  on  receipt  of  the  published  price. 

STUDIES   IN    MACHINE   DESIGN. 

By  C.   F.   ARCHER,  Certificated  Teacher,  Subject  II. 

ELEMENTABY    STAGE, 
and     Square-headed     Bolts    and 


1.  Hexagon 

Nuts. 

2.  Flange    Coupling    for    Shafts    of    different 

diameter. 


3.  Hydraulic  Pipe  Joint. 

4.  Steam  Piston. 

5.  Cylinder  Cover  and  Stuffing  Bos 


Full  Way  Stop  Valve. 
On  Separate  S  fleets,  13$  inches  by  9i  inches,  the  Six  in  a  Packet,  Sixpence. 
ADVANCED    STAGE. 

1.  Launch  Engine. 

2.  Details  of  Crank  Shaft  and  Columns. 

3.  Details  of  Slide  Valve  and  Link  Motion. 

On  Separate  Sheets,  13$  inches  by  9$ 


4.  Details  of  Piston,  Crosshead,  and  Connecting 
Rod. 


5.  Launch  Engine  Cylinder. 

6.  Details  of  Bed-plate. 

•hes,  the  Six  in  a  Packet,  Sixpence. 


GRIFFITH,     FARRAN,     OKEDEN     &    WELSH,     LONDON. 


HAND-CRAFT: 

THE  MOST  RELIABLE  BASIS  OF  TECHNICAL  EDUCATION 
IN  SCHOOLS  AND  CLASSES. 

A  TEXT  BOOK 

EMBODYING  A  SYSTEM  OF  PURE  MECHANICAL  ART,  WITHOUT  THE  AID  OF 
MACHINERY  ;  BEING  AN  ENGLISH  EXPOSITION  OF 

S  LO  J  D 

AS  CULTIVATED  IN  SWEDEN,  AND  GENERALLY  ADOPTED  BY  ALL 
SCANDINAVIAN  PEOPLES,  TO  THEIR  GREAT  ADVANTAGE. 

EXPLAINED    AND    ILLUSTRATED 

BY 

JOHN  D.  SUTCLIFFE, 


OF   THE    MANCHESTER    RECREATIVE   EVENING   CLASSES. 

WITH  AN  INTRODUCTION  BY 

T.     C     HORSFALL,     J.P. 


81 B  6 


NEW    YORK 

CHARLES    E.    MERRILL    &    C  O. 

52   &  54   LAFAYETTE   PLACE 

1890 


STATE  NORMAL  SCHOOL, 

llOS  flJlCEUEG,  CAIX. 

TT 
l«1 

S  2>(.K 

INTRODUCTION. 

T  T  is  surprising  that  so  few  efforts  have  hitherto  been  made  in  this  country  to 
introduce  manual  training  into  Elementary  Schools.  Adequate  reason  for 
making  such  training  part  of  the  national  system  of  education  exists  in  the  fact, 
that  a  large  proportion  of  the  people  have  to  earn  their  livelihood  by  industries 
for  the  attainment  of  a  high  degree  of  skill  in  which  early  training  of  hand  and 
eye  is  as  necessary  as  it  is  for  success  in  the  use  of  musical  instruments.  There 
can  be  no  doubt  that  if,  in  1870,  a  system,  resembling  that  of  Sloyd,  had  been 
generally  introduced  into  English  Elementary  Schools,  the  joiners,  metal-workers, 
and  most  other  craftsmen  of  to-day,  would  possess  more  skill  in  their  own  work, 
and  more  interest  in  all  kinds  of  manual  work,  than  they  do  now  possess,  and 
that  English  workpeople,  finding  that  their  children  received  at  school  kinds  of 
training  obviously  well  fitted  to  increase  wage-earning  power,  would  less  commonly 
than  now  be  careless  with  regard  to  their  children's  attendance  at  school. 

This  reason  for  desiring  the  introduction  of  manual  training  into  Elementary 
Schools  might  have  been  expected  to  suggest  itself  to  all  persons  who  are  ac- 
quainted with  the  conditions  under  which  the  mass  of  English  people  live;  but 
experience  gained  in  Sweden  and  other  countries  where  the  Sloyd  system  has 
been  largely  used,  proves  that  there  are  also  strong  educational  reasons  for  desiring 
that  Sloyd  shall  be  introduced  into  all  English  Elementary  Schools  as  soon  as 
possible.  It  has  been  found  that  this  admirably  graduated  system  of  training  not 
only  fosters  deftness  of  hand  and  correctness  of  eye,  as  it  might  be  expected  to 
do,  but  also  has  distinctly  moral  and  intellectual  effects,  as  it  promotes  patient 
attention,  steady  application,  and  interest  in  work,  to  a  very  high  degree. 

Its  effect  on  many  of  the  large  class  of  children  who,  though  not  dullards, 
show  lack  of  interest  in,  and  deficiency  in  the  power  to  understand,  the  subjects 
comprised  in  the  ordinary  school-curriculum,  has  been  most  beneficial.  In  their 
Sloyd-lessons  many  of  these  children  have  found  themselves  the  equals,  some  more 


6  INTRODUCTION. 

than  the  equals,  of  companions  far  their  superiors  at  book-work,  and  have  by  this 
gained  a  confidence  in  their  own  ability  which  has  often  reacted  on  their  power 
and  their  will  to  conquer  their  other  lessons.  Thus  many  children  who,  when 
they  first  began  Sloyd,  were  distinctly  below  the  average  in  intelligence,  have 
become  under  its  influence  completely  "  normal."  On  nearly  all  children  the  effect 
of  this  kind  of  training  has  been  so  vivifying  that,  at  least,  as  much  progress  has 
been  made  with  other  subjects,  when  several  hours  weekly  have  been  given  to  Sloyd, 
as  had  been  made  previously  when  all  the  school-time  was  given  to  them.  The 
general  educational  value  of  Sloyd  has,  indeed,  been  found  to  be  so  great,  that  in 
some  schools  in  Swedish  towns  as  many  as  eight  hours  are  given  to  it  each  week. 

All  persons  who  know  how  badly  prepared  are  the  majority  of  the  children 
who  now  leave  our  Elementary  Schools  for  gaining  rapidly  skill  in  the  work  by 
which  they  have  to  live,  or  for  taking  an  intelligent  interest  in  their  own  work  or 
in  the  best  handiwork  of  others,  most  strongly  desire  that  the  educational  authori- 
ties in  this  country  will  no  longer  delay  the  introduction  of  a  system,  the  great  use- 
fulness of  which  has  been  so  fully  ascertained  in  other  lands,  and  for  which  many 
well-trained  English  teachers  can  now  be  obtained.  Mr  Sutcliffe  brought  to  the 
careful  study  of  Sloyd,  knowledge  of  the  methods  of  wood-carving ;  and  his  treatise 
will  doubtless  be  found  to  be  helpful  to  all  teachers  of  the  new  system. 

T.  C.  HORSFALL,  J.P. 
SWANSCOE  PARK, 

near  MACCLESFIELD. 


NOTE  BY  THE  AUTHOR. 

SOME  friends  have  advised  that  elementary  suggestions  should  have  been  given 
as  guidance  for  the  use  of  the  tools.  Everything  of  the  kind  has  been  omitted, 
because  it  is  vain  to  rely  upon  book  knowledge  in  such  matters.  How  to  handle 
and  use  the  tools  can  only  be  well  imparted  by  a  competent  teacher  in  practice. 
The  author  avails  himself  of  two  more  lines,  wherein  to  acknowledge  the  valuable 
literary  assistance  he  has  received  from  his  friend,  Mr  Richard  Russell,  of 
Ashbourne  House,  Herne  Hill,  London.  J.  D.  S. 

PENDLETON,  MANCHESTER, 
March  1890. 


HAND-CRAFT. 

some  generations  there  has  been  cultivated  in  Sweden, 
and  amongst  Scandinavian  and  kindred  peoples,  a  course  of 
training  in  personal  ingenuity,  unknown  in  most  other  countries. 
It  does  not  seem  to  have  ever  been  persevered  in  after  the 
manner  of  trading  industry,  but  as  a  means  of  promoting  through- 
out the  community  a  taste  and  skill  for  the  performance  of  highly- 
finished  productions  in  mechanical  art,  proceeding  from  the  simple 
to  the  complex,  and  resulting  in  a  widely-diffused  facility  for  all 
kinds  of  constructive  occupations. 

Such  course  or  system  of  training  is  called  Sloyd,  and  written 
Slbjd.^)  For  the  majority  of  English  people  such  a  word  cannot 
have  a  meaning,  and  cannot  appeal  with  adequate  force  to  popular 
appreciation.  /The  nearest  equivalent  in  English  to  the  Swedish 
word  Slqjd  would  seem  to  be  Hand-Craft,  or  mechanical  training 
for  the  hand,  undertaken  voluntarily  for  the  satisfaction  of  acquir- 
ing manual  skill  in  general,  as  distinguished  from  a  handicraft  of 
limited  application,  pursued  of  necessity  from  day  to  day,  rather 
by  routine  than  by  skill. 

Hand-Craft  is  therefore  adopted  as  synonymous  in  England 
with  the  word  Slojd  in  Sweden. 

As  cultivated  in  Sweden,   it  involves  all  kinds  of  manual 


8  HAND-CRAFT. 

training,  and  is  applicable  to  highly  finished  productions  in  leather, 
metal,  and  various  other  substances,  but  it  suffices,  for  educational 
purposes,  to  limit  teaching  and  exercise  to  objects  made  of  wood. 

^JLLm«stralways  be  borne  in  mind  that  Hand-Craft  is  mainly 
educational,  and  is  valuable,  not  for  what  it  produces,  but  for  the 
training  which  the  production  involves ;  just  as  the  letters  of  the 
alphabet,  and  their  accurate  use,  are  the  essential  preliminaries 
to  literary  attainments.  It  imparts  and  cultivates  mechanical 
dexterity,  just  as  learning  to  read  and  write  spontaneously 
developes  mental  capacity.  Therefore,  whoever  masters  a  course 
of  Hand-Craft  acquires  an  aptitude  for  all  kinds  of  material  pro- 
cesses. Such  an  aptitude,  while  useful  and  gratifying  to  the 
individual,  is  of  the  greatest  consequence  amongst  people  so 
deeply  interested  as  the  English  are  in  manufacturing  pursuits. 

Hand-Craft  also  has  strong  claims  to  be  cultivated  as  a 
recreation,  and  experience  proves  that  it  may  be  so  regarded,  with 
every  prospect  of  becoming  popular  as  such. 

Touching  this  matter  of  recreation,  and  those  who  have  not 
the  faculty  for  viewing  the  subject  in  that  light,  reference  may  be 
made  to  familiar  facts  with  reference  to  chess.  Perhaps  there  is 
nothing  that,  to  the  uninitiated,  appears  more  stupid,  insipid,  and 
purposeless  than  the  progress  of  that  game.  Yet  there  are 
thousands,  who  have  so  regarded  it,  who,  after  being  well  initiated, 
have  become  interested  and  absorbed  by  it,  to  an  extent  exceed- 
ing the  possibilities  of  their  original  belief. 


HAND-CRAFT,  g 

So  it  is  with  Hand-Craft,  with  this  difference,  that  Hand-Craft, 
while  supplying  an  incentive  to  wholesome  perseverance,  develop- 
ing into  a  fascinating  recreation,  is  suggestive  at  every  turn  of 
life-long  utility,  with  reference  to  an  infinite  variety  of  probable 
subsequent  experience.  It  promotes  a  delightful  consciousness  of 
the  merits  of  neat,  natty  tastefulness  and  judgment  with  reference 
to  every  material  thing,  and  trains  the  mind  and  the  eye,  as  well  as 
the  hand,  to  perceive  and  appreciate  excellence  of  design  and 
finish,  proportion,  beauty,  and  adaptability  of  the  most  familiar 
appliances. 

Training  of  this  kind  has,  in  recent  years,  been  much  stimu- 
lated by  the  establishment  of  an  Institute  or  Seminary  for  its 
teaching  and  cultivation  at  Naas  in  Sweden,  where  very  generous 
accommodation  and  facilities  are  provided  for  the  instruction 
of  teachers  from  all  parts  of  Sweden  and  the  rest  of  the  world. 
The  subsequent  mission  of  each  of  those  teachers  is  to  diffuse  the 
taste  and  knowledge  he  has  thus  acquired  amongst  his  own  people 
on  his  return  to  them,  or  amongst  other  people  where  he  may  find 
encouragement  to  settle  for  that  purpose. 

Thus  have  the  foundations  been  laid  for  this  genial  drawing 
out  and  exercise  of  latent  mechanical  genius  amongst  the  people  of 
England.  With  the  object  of  widening  those  foundations,  these 
pages  have  been  prepared  ;  primarily  as  forming  a  Text  Book  for 
Teachers,  but  also  as  an  incentive  to  parents,  educationists,  and 
statesmen  to  fortify  the  rising  generation  of  England  against  the 


io  HAND-CRAFT. 

opprobrium  so  justly  alleged  against  the  English  of  the  present  day, 
that  they  are  behind  the  rest  of  the  industrial  world  in  those 
elements  of  mechanical  taste  and  skill,  which  are  becoming  more 
and  more  essential  to  the  maintenance  of  manufacturing  and 
commercial  prosperity. 

An  earnest  determination  to  promote  amendment  in  these 
respects  cannot  be  better  carried  into  effect  than  by  insisting  that 
Hand-Craft  shall  be  regarded  as  an  essential  branch  of  the  Techni- 
cal Education  that  is  now  struggling  to  assert  itself  usefully.  If 
such  a  branch  be  left  out,  the  mere  teaching  of  routine  trade 
processes  will  inevitably  fail.  Such  routine  processes  are  many  of 
them  in  heavy-handed,  rough  disregard  of  the  nicety,  accuracy, 
finish,  and  judgment  which  intelligent  exercise  in  Hand-Craft  can 
alone  impart ;  which  is  the  only  reliable  basis  for  the  superior 
mechanical  results  so  much  needed. 

Hand-Craft  in  wood  is  distinguished  from  carpentry  or  joinery 
in  many  important  respects. 

There  is  no  division  of  labour. 

Everything  produced  is  the  entire  work  of  one  operator,  for 
the  defects  of  which  he  is  solely  responsible. 

This  directness  of  responsibility  is  one  of  the  great  merits  of 
Hand-Craft,  being  calculated  to  promote  wholesome  pride  in  the 
excellence  of  complete  work ;  a  sentiment  that  is  apt  to  be  very  weak, 
or  totally  wanting,  where  division  of  labour  is  much  relied  upon. 

The  intellectual  faculties  are  brought  into  unison  with  the 


HAND-CRAFT.  1 1 

hand,  by  knowledge   and   experience   developing   together   with 
increasing  dexterity. 

Genuine  respect  and  sympathy  are  developed  for  manual  toil 
by  familiarity  with  its  application. 

Love  of  work  in  general  is  developed,  and  a  taste  for  it  instilled 
by  practical  experience  of  its  utility. 

Habits  of  attention,  perseverance,  industry,  and  discipline  are 
formed,  cultivated,  and  unconsciously  grafted  upon  the  pupil,  by 
the  application  necessary  to  excel. 

^Independence,  order,  and  cleanliness  spontaneously  grow  and 
become  part  of  the  nature  of  the  operator. 

Manual  dexterity  being  thoroughly  established,  the  operator 
is  endowed  with  the  consequent  acquired  ability  for  dealing  with 
the  practical  business  of  life. 

Education  being  the  object  that  should  be  constantly  kept  in 
view,  in  the  teaching  and  practice  of  Hand-Craft,  it  should  be 
thoroughly  appreciated  that  it  is  adapted  for  forming  and  shaping 
the  entire  bent  of  all  the  faculties. 

The  objects  recommended  to  work  upon  are  all  small,  and  are 
therefore  within  the  capacity  of  the  very  young,  and  of  both  sexes'. 

For  the  same  reason,  the  eye,  the  hand,  and  the  judgment  are 
trained  to  precise  form  and  finish  in  the  minutest  details.  This  is 
important,  for,  though  it  is  generally  easier  to  make  something  large 
and  rough  than  small  and  smooth,  no  one  who  is  incapable  of 
making  a  small  model  well  can  make  a  large  one  any  better. 


12  HAND-CRAFT. 

Small  objects  are  invariably  the  best  training  to  work  upon,  as 
being  certain  to  inspire  appreciation  for  neatness,  exactness,  and 
accuracy. 

BASIS  OF  TEACHING. 

Practical  teaching  of  Hand-Craft  is  based  upon  models  for 
imitation. 

These  models,  distinguished  by  numbering  from  IA  and  IB 
to  25,  are  represented  by  the  drawings  accompanying  these 
pages,  and  the  instructions  hereafter  subjoined  are  explained  by 
reference  to  the  drawings. 

The  following  is  a 

LIST  OF  THE  MODELS. 

%*  The  second  column  indicates  the  kind  of  wood  required — 
B.  signifying  Beech  or  Birch,  and  F.  signifying  Fir,  commonly 
called  Deal  or  Pine ;  the  class  of  wood  usually  distinguished  as 
Pine  being  preferable  to  the  rougher-grained  wood  generally- 
classed  as  Deal. 

No.  Wood.  Names  of  Models. 

i A.  B.  Kindergarten  Pointer. 

IB.  B.  Another  variety  of  the  same. 

2.  B.  Parcel- Pin  or  Carrier. 

3.  F.  Flower-Stick. 


HAND-CRAFT.  13 

No.  Wood.  Names  of  Models. 

4.  B.  Envelope  Opener. 

5.  F.  Rectangular  Flower- Stick. 

6.  F.  Pencil  Holder. 

7.  F.  Key  Label. 

8.  -B.  Thread-Winder. 

9.  F.  Dibble  for  the  Garden, 
ro.  B.  Pen- Rest. 

11.  F.  Flower-pot  Stand. 

1 2.  B.  Paper-Knife. 

13.  B.  Knife- Rest. 

1 4.  B.  Bowl,  for  Toilette,  &c. 

15.  B.  Hammer  Handle. 

1 6.  B.  Handle  for  Chisel  or  File. 

17.  B.  Spoon. 

1 8.  F.  Chopping-Board. 

19.  B.  Measure  (Half-yard). 

20.  B.  Scoop  for  Flour,  Sugar,  &c. 

21.  F.  Hanging- Pegs. 

22.  F.  Stand  for  Flower- Pot,  &c. 

23.  F.  Footstool. 

24.  F.  &  B.    Book  Carrier. 

25.  B.  Ladle. 


i4  HAND-CRAFT. 

TOOLS  AND  APPLIANCES. 

The  following  is  a  List  of  Tools  and  Appliances  necessary 
for  producing  the  models  before  enumerated,  with  the  cost  of  each, 
both  Swedish  and  English. 

Descriptions  of  Articles.                                      Best  Swedish.  Best  English. 

s.      d.  s.       d. 

Carpenter's  Bench  in  Pine,  6  ft.  long          .          113  130 

Knife  (resembling  a  Shoemaker's)      .         .         04  08 

Two  Frame  Saws,  blades  f  and  \\  wide    .          27*  10  6 

Tenon  or  Dovetail  Saw  (small)          .         .         20  30 

Jack  Plane         ..'.         .         .         .          18  49 

Smooth  Plane    .         .         .         .         .                   i      i  39 

Three  Furmer  Chisels,  f,  f,  and  \\  wide  .          12  24 

Three  Outsicle  Gouges,  |,  £,  and  i  \  wide  .          14  28 

Two-foot  Rule  .         .         .         .         .                  06  06 

Square  (6  in.)     .         .         .         .         .         .          i     6  i    10 

Bevel  (6  in.) 08  23 

Marking  Gauge 06  06 

Compasses         ......         i     o  i     8 

Hammer  (small) 08  08 

Mallet 0610 

Carry  forward,          26     9  49      i 
*  Nothing  exactly  like  this  Swedish  Saw  is  made  in  England. 


HAND-CRAFT.  15 

Description  of  Articles.  Best  Swedish.     Best  English. 

s.       d.  s.       d. 

Brought  forward,  26     9       49     i 

Oilstone ,    .  07          10 

Scraper,  with  round  end    .         .         .         .  02         05 
Two    Files    (half   round),  one  rough,  the 

other  smooth       .         .         .         .  i     o         30 

Chopper  or  Axe                           .                  .  i    10         i     6 

Spokeshave  (iron)      .  0510 

Screw-driver      ....  o     3         o     7 

Glue- Pot  and  Brush  .  i     6         o  10 

Pincers      .                                     ,  0709 

Two  Brad- Awls         .  0204 

Brace  and  twenty-four  Bits  40         69 
Sand-paper  No.  IA 
Pencil 


*  37     3       65     3 

Although  the  prices  of  the  English  tools  are  so  much  higher 
than  the  Swedish  (with  few  exceptions),  they  are  cheaper  in  the 
end.  They  are  more  carefully  made  ;  the  wood  is  drier  and  better 
selected  ;  and  Swedish  steel  is  not  to  be  compared  with  English. 
At  the  same  time,  the  Swedish  tools  are  good  enough  to  put 
into  the  hands  of  school  boys  and  girls,  and  they  have  also 
the  advantage  of  being  considerably  lighter  in  weight. 
*  Exclusive  of  carriage  from  Gothenburg. 


1 6  HAND-CRAFT. 


THE  BENCH, 

A  drawing  of  the  Bench  is  annexed,  to  show  the  difference 
between  one  adapted  for  Sloyd  or  Hand-Craft  and  the  kind  in 
common  use  by  carpenters.  The  Sloyd  Bench  is  usually 
about  7  ft.  long,  2  ft.  wide,  and  3  ft.  3  in.  high.  As  shown 
in  the  drawing,  it  has  an  extra  Bench  Screw  at  the  end,  which 
enables  the  student  to  fix  a  piece  of  level  wood  rigidly  on  the  top 
of  the  Bench,  by  placing  the  end  against  a  Stop,  as  shown  in  the 
drawing,  and  bringing  the  pressure  of  the  End  Screw  to  bear  on 
the  other  end.  The  numerous  holes  (shown  in  the  drawing)  on 
the  Bench  Top,  are  so  arranged  that  the  Stop  can  be  fixed  in  any 
of  them.  For  school  work  the  Benches  are  often  made  double — 
that  is,  with  a  Screw  on  each  side  and  on  each  end  of  the  Bench. 
This  arrangement  economises  space,  and  answers  all  practical 
purposes;  enabling  two  students  to  work  at  one  bench.  The 
Sloyder  will  find  it  an  advantage  to  fix  a  small  drawer  under  the 
bench  top.  In  this  he  should  keep  his  sandpaper  and  files,  as 
nothing  is  so  detrimental  to  the  edges  of  the  sharp  tools  as  these 
two  articles. 


HAND-CRAFT. 


TOOL  EXERCISES. 

The  making  of  the  models  involves  training  in  the  exercises 
enumerated  in  the  following  list,  the  numbering  being  for  sub- 
sequent reference. 

1.  Long  Cut  (with  grain). 

2.  End  Cut  (across  grain). 

3.  Oblique  Cut. 

4.  Bevel  Cut. 

5.  Sawing  off. 

6.  Convex  Cut. 

7.  Long  Sawing. 

8.  Edge  Planing. 

9.  Squaring  with  Set  Square. 

10.  Gauging. 

11.  Drilling    with     Brace    and 

Shell-Bit. 

12.  Flat  Planing. 

13.  Filing. 

14.  Drilling    with     Brace     and 

Centre-Bit. 


with 


15.  Curved  Sawing. 

16.  Concave  Cut. 

17.  Bevelled  Planing. 


18.  Shaping  with  Plane. 

19.  Chopping. 

20.  Cross-Sawing, 

21.  Mortising  with  Knife. 

22.  Wave-Sawing. 

23.  Plane     Surface -Cut 

Knife. 

24.  Scraping. 

25.  Obstacle- Planing. 

26.  Perpendicular  Chiselling. 

2  7.  Concave  Chiselling  or  Goug- 
ing. 

28.  Gouging  with  Spoon-Iron. 

29.  Oblique  Chiselling. 

30.  Smoothing  with  Spokeshave. 

3 1 .  Shaping  with  Spokeshave. 

32.  Oblique  Sawing. 

33.  Oblique  Planing. 

34.  End  Planing. 


20 


HAND-CRAFT. 


35.  Exercises   with    Smoothing 

Plane. 

36.  Work  in  Hard  Wood. 

37.  Dowelling  or  Round  Mortis- 

ing. 

38.  Bevelling  Edge  with  Plane 

Oblique. 

39.  Gluing. 

40.  Sinking  in  of  Iron  Plates. 

41.  Nailing. 


42.  Sinking  of  Nails. 

43.  Bevelling      with      Shaping 

Knife. 

44.  Perpendicular  Gouging. 

45.  Point  Planing. 

46.  Oblique  Grooving. 

47.  Circular  Sawing. 

48.  Fixing  with  Screws. 

49.  Modelling  with  Knife. 


MAKING  OF  THE  MODELS. 

The  following  are  the  descriptions  of  how  to  apply  the  Exercises 
to  the  making  of  the  Models. 

No.    IA.   KINDERGARTEN  POINTER. 
(Requiring  Exercises  i  and  2.) 

Commence  with  a  piece  of  Beech,  rather  more  than  5  in.  long, 
and  not  less  than  f  in.  thick.  It  is  all  the  better,  for  this  and  other 
exercises,  if  it  is  split  from  a  larger  piece,  and  has  no  side  either 
square  or  straight.  With  the  knife,  make  one  side  level  and 
smooth,  to  a  width  rather  exceeding  -|  in.  When  that  is  done 
perfectly,  make  another  straight  side  at  right  angles  to  the  first. 
Trim  the  ends ;  then  mark  with  the  pencil  at  each  end  a  f-in. 


HAND-CRAFT.  21 

square,  with  the  two  straight  sides  as  bases.  Then  cut  two 
additional  straight  sides  in  unison  with  those  squares.  This  will 
produce  a  stem  a  shade  more  than  5  in.  long  and  f  in.  square. 


Mark  each  end  with  a  diagram  thus 


;  then  draw  corresponding 


lines  along  each  side.  Then,  letting  one  end  remain  the  same  size  ; 
reduce  the  other  end  to  \  in.  square  (as  shown  in  centre  of  diagram) 
by  tapering  each  side  symmetrically  throughout.  This  will  result 
in  the  stem  being  f  in.  square  at  one  end  and  •§•  in.  square  at  the 
other  end.  Then,  guided  by  the  diagram  at  the  thicker  end,  take 
off  the  four  corners  symmetrically  throughout,  thus  producing  a 
tapered  octagonal  stem.  Then,  in  like  manner,  take  off  the  eight 
corners  with  great  precision,  so  as  to  maintain  uniform  symmetry, 
and  the  result  will  be  a  tapered  stem,  approximately  round  through- 
out and  pointed  at  one  end. 

The  Long  Cut  having,  thus  far,  been  solely  resorted  to, 
measure  from  the  point,  and  make  a  mark  at  4  in.  ;  then  cut  off  at 
the  mark,  thus  exercising  the  Cross  Cut.  Then,  by  judiciously 
applying  sand-paper,  the  pointer  may  be  made  perfectly  smooth 
and  almost  perfectly  round,  as  it  should  be  throughout. 

No.    JB.    KINDERGARTEN  POINTER. 
(Requiring  Exercises  i,  2,  and  3.) 

Proceed  as  for  the  previous  model  until  the  round  pointer  is 
produced.  Then  apply  Exercise  3  to  the  two  Oblique  Cuts  shown 


22  HAND-CRAFT. 

from  A  to  a  in  the  figures  i,  2,  and  3,  of  drawings  No.  IB.  These 
Oblique  Cuts  demand  great  care  and  precision,  as  the  Cuts  should 
be  precisely  opposite  each  other,  perfectly  level  and  symmetrical. 

No.  2.  PARCEL-PIN  OR  CARRIER. 
(Requiring  Exercises  i,  2,  and  4.) 

Commence  with  a  piece  of  Beech  rather  more  than  3  in.  long 
and  4  in.  thick.  Reduce  it  in  like  manner  as  previously  described 
to  a  stem  3  in.  long  and  f  in.  square  throughout.  Then  apply 
Exercise  4,  and  so  bevel  the  sides  and  ends  as  to  make  chamfers, 
as  shown  in  Figs,  i,  2,  and  3  of  drawings  No.  2.  Then  draw  a 
line  across  the  centre  of  one  side,  and  there  cut  a  V~snaPed  notch 
as  shown  in  Figs,  i  and  2,  so  as  to  provide  for  a  string.  Then 
finish  with  a  piece  of  sand-paper  laid  upon  a  flat  surface,  upon 
which  first  rub  the  sides,  then  the  chamfers,  and  lastly  the  ends. 

No.  3.  FLOWER-STICK. 
(Requiring  Exercises  5,  i,  2,  and  6.) 

This  is  the  first  model  made  in  soft  wood,  and  introduces 
Exercise  5,  Sawing  Off.  From  the  edge  of  a  f-in.  board  saw  off  a 
piece  the  same  width  as  the  thickness,  and  about  14  in.  long. 
Proceed  as  for  No.  IA  until  a  rod  is  produced  ^  in.  square  through- 
out. Then,  by  a  cross  made  from  corner  to  corner  NX  find 


/#'• 


1 


Fig  2. 


•s 

IT 


1.5 


.* 

N?3 


HAND-CRAFT.  25 

the  centre  of  one  end.  Then  take  off  the  corners  through- 
out until  an  octagonal  rod  is  produced  ;  then  take  off  the  eight 
corners  so  as  to  make  the  rod  round  and  the  same  thickness 
throughout.  Then  apply  Exercise  6,  the  Convex  Cut,  and  point 
the  end  where  the  centre  is  marked.  Then  measure  from  the 
point  and  mark  at  12  in.,  and  there  cut  off  at  right  angles. 
Then  apply  sand-paper,  and  the  result  will  be  a  tapered  symme- 
trical round  rod,  pointed  at  one  end,  as  shown  in  drawings  No.  3. 

No.  4.  ENVELOPE  OPENER. 
(Requiring  Exercises  5,  i,  2,  and  6.) 

Saw  from  Beech,  a  piece  about  8  in.  long,  f  in.  wide  and  \  in. 
thick.  With  the  knife,  make  one  of  the  flat  sides  perfectly  level 
and  smooth  throughout,  and  cut  one  end  across  at  right  angles. 
With  a  fine  pencil,  draw  on  the  level  side  the  outline  of  Fig  i  of 
drawings  No.  4,  and  also,  with  compasses,  describe  on  the  end  the 
semicircle  shown  by  Fig  3  of  drawings  No.  4,  with  the  flat  edge 
for  the  base.  Apply  the  long  cut  to  the  edges  at  right  angles  to 
the  flat  side.  Then,  on  each  of  the  edges  thus  flattened,  draw  a 
line  showing  the  course  of  the  tapering  illustration  on  the  first  side 
of  Fig.  2  of  drawings  No.  4.  Apply  the  long  cut  to  each  of  those 
lines,  at  right  angles  to  the  edges.  This  will  produce  a  rod,  flat 
on  one  side,  and  presenting  a  tapered  half  square  on  the  other. 
Then  shave  off  the  corners  of  that  square,  so  as  to  produce  half  a 


26  HAND-CRAFT. 

tapered  octagon  ;  then  shave  off  the  corners  of  that  octagon,  being 
careful  that  the  work  is  in  unison  with  the  semicircle  previously 
described  on  the  thick  end.  When  so  far  done  to  satisfaction, 
round  both  ends  symmetrically,  as  shown  in  Figs,  i  and  2  of 
drawings  No.  4,  and  finish  with  sand-paper. 

No.  5.  RECTANGULAR  FLOWER-STICK,  WITH  CHAMFERED  OR 
BEVELLED  CORNERS. 

(Requiring  Exercises  5,  7,  8,  9,  6,  and  3.) 

In  this  model  the  Jack  Plane  and  the  Try  Square  are  used  for 
the  first  time.  Saw  off  from  Pine  a  piece  about  16  in.  long  and  f 
in.  square.  Plane  one  side  straight  and  true,  and  one  of  the  other 
sides  at  right  angles.  Cut  each  end  across  at  right  angles,  and  on 
each  end,  using  the  planed  edges  as  basis,  mark  Fig.  2  of  drawings 
No.  5.  Then  plane  the  other  two  sides  at  right  angles,  so  as  to 
produce  a  square  rod,  which,  at  every  part  throughout  its  length, 
should  fit  the  try  square.  Then,  with  the  plane,  take  about  two 
shavings  off  each  corner,  in  unison  with  the  figures  at  the  ends. 
Then,  with  the  knife,  cut  the  point  from  a  to  a  as  shown  in  Fig.  i 
of  drawings  No.  5.  Then  measure  from  the  long-pointed  end, 
mark  the  exact  length,  cut  across  at  the  mark,  and  cut  the  other 
end  to  a  point  with  eight  sides  as  shown  in  Figs,  i  and  2. 
Finish  with  sand-paper  at  the  long-pointed  end  only. 


fig  3. 


-  XT' 

I  [III 


I 

^j 


•f 


HAND-CRAFT.  29 

No.  6.   PENCIL  HOLDER. 
(Requiring  Exercises  5,  i,  n,  6,  and  2.) 

This  model  for  the  first  time  introduces  the  Brace  and  Bit. 
Saw  off  from  Pine  a  piece  10  in.  long,  and  f  in.  square.  With  the 
knife,  cut  one  end  "across  at  right  angles,  and  make  it  smooth. 
Find  the  centre  of  the  end  as  for  model  No.  i.  Fix  the  stem 
vertically  in  the  Bench  Screw,  with  the  smooth  end  upwards.  Fit 
a  ^-Shell-Bit  into  the  Brace,  and  bore  a  centre  hole  in  the  end  of 
the  stem  as  shown  in  Fig.  2  of  drawings  No.  6,  and  to  the  depth 
dotted  in  Fig.  i.  Great  care  must  be  taken  in  drilling,  so  that 
the  hole  may  be  clean  and  perpendicular.  With  the  knife,  pare 
down  each  side  so  as  to  leave  a  |-in.  square,  with  the  drilled  hole 
in  the  centre.  Find  the  centre  in  the  opposite  end.  Mark  a  line 
about  2 \  in.  from  the  drilled  end,  as  shown  in  Fig.  i.  From  that 
line,  shave  each  side  down  to  the  centre  last  found.  Then  take 
off  the  corners  so  as  to  make  a  tapered  octagon.  Then  take  off 
the  corners  of  the  octagon,  so  as  to  produce  a  round  tapered  rod. 
Measure  from  the  thick  end  and  mark  the  exact  length,  and,  at  the 
mark,  cut  across.  Then  round  the  end  as  shown  in  Fig.  i,  and 
finish  with  sand-paper. 

NOTE. — This  is  a  repetition  to  a  considerable  extent  of  Model 
i  on  a  larger  scale.  The  student  may  be  tempted  to  proceed 
without  going  through  the  processes  described,  but  the  temptation 


30  HAND-CRAFT. 

should  be  rigorously  resisted,  as  a  satisfactory  result  cannot  be 
obtained  except  by  adhering  to  all  the  details  prescribed. 


No.  7.  KEY  LABEL. 
(Requiring  Exercises  5,  12,  8,  9,  10,  n,  6,  2,  and  13.) 

This  is  mainly  intended  for  an  exercise  in  planing,  and  it  is 
better  to  get  out  a  piece  of  Pine  sufficient  for  two  models — that  is, 
about  9  in.  long,  if  in.  wide,  and  i  in.  thick. 

Plane  one  side,  and  then  one  edge,  perfectly  straight  and 
square  to  each  other.  Then  set  the  gauge  to  \\  in.  to  fit  Fig.  i  of 
drawings  No.  7.  Apply  the  gauge  to  the  straightened  edge  and 
mark  off  the  width  along  the  smooth  side.  Then  plane  that  edge 
down  to  the  line  so  made,  using  the  try-square  to  keep  the  edge  at 
right  angles  with  the  straightened  side.  Next  find  the  centre  f  in. 
from  the  top  end,  as  shown  in  Fig.  i.  From  that  centre  describe 
with  the  compasses  a  semicircle.  Then  fit  a  ^-Shell-bit  into  the 
Brace,  and  bore  a  hole,  at  the  centre  of  the  semicircle,  right 
through.  Then  set  the  gauge  to  •£$  in.  for  the  thickness,  as  shown 
by  Fig.  2.  Apply  the  gauge  to  the  straightened  side,  and  mark 
the  line  for  thickness  along  each  edge.  Then  plane  the  rough  side 
down  to  those  lines.  Then,  with  the  knife,  cut  round  precisely  to 
the  semicircle,  using  the  try-square  frequently. 

[If  a  double  length  is  commenced  with,  as  before  recommended, 


HAND-CRAFT.  31 

the  centering,  marking,  drilling,  and  rounding  must  be  done  at 
both  ends.] 

Measure  from  the  rounded  end,  and  rule  with  the  square,  the 
length  of  4i  in.  Then,  with  Tenon  or  Dovetail  Saw,  cut  off  just 
outside  the  line.  Then,  with  the  knife,  pare  down  to  the  line,  and 
with  a  file,  smooth  that  end  as  well  as  the  rounded  end,  finishing 
throughout  with  sand-paper. 

No.  8.  THREAD-WINDER. 
(Requiring  Exercises  5,  7,  12,  8,  9,  10,  14,  15,  i,  6,  16,  and  13.) 

Beech  is  required,  about  7  in.  long,  3  in.  wide,  and  i  in.  thick. 
Plane  one  side  and  one  edge.  Draw  the  centre  line  A  to  B  in  Fig. 
i  of  drawings  No.  8.  With  square  and  compasses  draw  all  the  other 
lines  shown  in  the  same  Fig.  Then  fit  a  f  in.  Centre-bit  to  the 
Brace,  and  bore  two  holes,  one  at  A  and  the  other  at  B.  Then, 
with  the  smaller  turning  saw,  cut  the  two  outside  curved  edges  as 
shown  in  Fig.  i.  With  the  knife,  trim  to  the  lines,  making  the 
edges  square,  as  shown  in  Fig.  3.  Then  shave  and  slightly  round 
each  semicircle,  as  shown  in  Figs,  i  and  2,  smoothing  the  edges 
with  the  file.  Then  set  the  Marking  Gauge  to  1  in.,  and,  with  the 
smooth  side  for  a  base,  mark  gauge  lines  on  each  edge  for  thick- 
ness, and  plane  the  rough  side  down  to  those  lines.  Then  set  the 
plane  very  fine  and  take  a  shaving  off  the  face  side  so  as  to  remove 
the  pencil  and  compass  marks.  Then  finish  with  sand-paper. 


32  HAND-CRAFT. 

No.  9.  DIBBLE  FOR  GARDEN. 
(Requiring  Exercises  5,  7,  8,  9,  10,  17,  18,  6,  2,  and  13.) 

Saw  out  from  Fir  a  piece  14  in.  long  and  i£  in.  square.  Plane 
one  side  straight  and  another  side  at  right  angles.  Set  the  Mark- 
ing Gauge  to  i  in.,  and  with  the  planed  side  as  base,  mark  lines 
for  thickness  along  each  planed  side.  Then  plane  the  rough  sides 
down  to  those  lines,  using  the  Try  Square  frequently.  Then,  at 


each  end  find  the  centre  thus 


thus 


with  additional  lines  show- 


With    the    Marking    Gauge    draw 


lines  from  end  to  end  of  each  side  corresponding  with 
the  corners  of  each  octagon.  Plane  the  corners  of  the  square 
clown  to  those  octagon  lines,  thus  producing  an  octagonal  rod,  and 
completing  the  first  exercise  in  bevel  planing.  Plane  off  the 
corners  of  the  octagon  throughout,  thus  producing  a  rod  approxi- 
mately round,  shown  in  Fig.  2  of  drawings  No.  9,  and  so  complet- 
ing the  first  exercise^  in  shaping  with  plane.  Measure  from  one 
end  for  the  point  as  shown  in  Fig.  i,  and,  with  the  knife,  cut  the 
point  as  roundly  and  symmetrically  as  possible,  referring  to  the 
centre  marked  at  the  end  as  a  guide  for  the  precise  place  of  the 
point.  Then  measure  from  the  point  and  mark  at  12  in.  Cut 
across  at  that  mark,  and  round  the  blunt  end  thus  made,  as  shown 
at  top  of  Fig.  i.  With  the  file,  dress  the  end  and  stray  angles 
throughout,  and  finish  with  sand-paper. 


N°7 


I 


Fi'fl. 


£L 


^ 

s 


y4 


^ 
— ^ 


33/8  in 


N°9 


1 

I  <3 


ff/Z, 

>B 

PackThread  Winde* 


HAND-CRAFT.  35 

No.  10.  PEN  REST. 
(Requiring  Exercises  5,  8,  9,  10,  20,  i,  2,  18,  and  13.) 

Cut  from  Beech  a  piece  5  in.  long,  i  in.  wide,  and  f  in.  thick. 
Plane  one  side  and  one  edge  at  right  angles,  then  gauge  and  plane 
to  thickness  and  height,  as  shown  in  Fig.  2  of  drawings  No.  10, 
but  flat  on  all  sides.  Saw  across  both  ends  at  right  angles,  so  as 
to  reduce  the  length  to  3^  in.  Select  one  edge  as  the  top,  and, 
with  the  square,  rule  a  central  line  from  e  to  e,  and  a  line  across  at 
each  of  the  places  marked  a,  d,  c,  and  d  in  Fig.  i,  continuing  each 
line  down  both  sides.  Then,  at  each  end,  mark  the  central  place 
represented  by  the  dot  in  Fig.  2.  From  each  of  those  central 
places  describe  the  semicircle  shown  at  top  of  Fig.  2.  Then  mark 
a  line  from  end  to  end  on  each  side  half  way  between  the  top  and 
the  bottom. 

Then,  with  the  knife,  and  working  to  the  semicircle  at  each 
end,  take  off  the  corners  of  the  top,  so  making  half  an  octagon,  and, 
by  taking  off  the  corners  of  the  half  octagon,  produce  a  top  corre- 
sponding to  the  semicircle  at  each  end,  as  shown  in  Fig.  2,  taking 
care  that  the  top  of  the  semicircle  throughout  centres  to  the  line 
previously  drawn  from  e  to  e.  Then,  with  the  tenon  saw,  at  each 
of  the  places  marked  a,  b,  c,  and  d,  saw  across  a  right  angle  slit 
&  in.  deep.  Then,  with  the  knife  or  a  chisel,  cut  out  the  space 
shown  in  Fig.  i  from  a  to  b  and  from  c  to  d,  taking  care  that  the 


36  HAND-CRAFT. 

side  of  each  space  is  true  and  square.  Then,  with  the  file,  round 
each  base  as  shown  at  the  top  of  the  shaded  section  in  Fig.  2. 
Then  smooth  with  the  file  where  required,  and  finish  with  sand- 
paper. 

No.   ii.  FLOWER- POT  STAND. 
(Requiring  Exercises  5,  7,  8,  9,  10,  2,  i,  6,  13,  and  21.) 

This  consists  of  two  pieces,  as  shown  in  Figs,  i  and  2  of 
drawings  No.  11,  each  piece  so  made  as  to  cross  and  fit  the  other 
at  the  centre,  hence  called  a  Flower- Pot  Cross,  the  whole  being  a 
test  of  exactness  and  good  work,  surpassing  any  preceding  model. 

Cut  from  Pine  a  piece  12  in.  long,  i\  in.  wide,  and  \  in.  thick. 
Plane  one  side  and  one  edge  at  right  angles ;  then  gauge  for 
height  and  thickness,  and  plane  the  other  side  and  edge  as  shown 
by  the  section  represented  in  Fig.  3.  Saw  across  the  middle  so  as 
to  make  two  pieces,  and,  from  the  end  of  each  so  cut,  measure  off 
and  saw  both  to  the  equal  length  of  5|  in.  each,  taking  care  that 
both  ends  of  each  are  accurate  right  angles.  Then  place  them  on 
their  sides  and  draw  the  centre  line  indicated  by  A  B,  continuing 
the  line  all  round  each  piece.  From  the  centre,  mark  off  the 
places  indicated  by  e  f  and  g  h.  At  c  and  d  of  each,  with  the 
compasses,  describe  the  quarter  circle  shown  at  each  top  corner 
of  the  figures,  striking  the  segments  from  the  respective  dots  shown 
for  the  purpose  near  each  top  corner.  Then,  with  the  bottom  edge 


HAND-CRAFT.  37 

for  a  base,  draw  a  gauge  line  on  each  side  of  both  pieces  to  the 
depth  represented  by  ij,  and  with  the  tenon  saw,  make  a  slit  at  e 
and  /  to  the  depth  of  such  gauge  line.  Then,  with  the  knife  or 
chisel,  cut  out  the  openings  between  e  and  f  to  the  depth  of  the 
gauge  line,  taking  care  to  finish  the  opening  perfectly  level  and 
true.  Then,  at  the  bottom  of  one  piece  and  the  top  of  the  other, 
as  shown  in  Figs,  i  and  2,  gauge,  saw,  and  cut  out  the  spaces  from 
g  to  h  in  the  same  manner  as  for  the  spaces  before  mentioned. 
The  openings  from  g  to  k,  if  well  done,  will  fit  accurately  in  all 
directions,  and,  when  put  together,  will  form  a  firm  cross.  Then, 
with  the  knife,  round  the  corners  of  each  piece,  at  c  and  d.  Then 
smooth  with  file  where  required,  and  finish  with  sand-paper. 

No.   13.  KNIFE  REST.* 
(Requiring  Exercises  5,  7,  8,  9,  10,  20,  18,  26,  i,  2,  27,  13,  and  24.) 

Cut  from  Beech  a  piece  about  5  in.  long,  i  in.  wide,  and  f  in. 
thick.  Plane  one  side  and  one  edge  at  right  angles.  Then 
saw  across  one  end  at  right  angles,  and,  measuring  from 
that  end,  mark  off  the  length  at  41  in.,  and  saw  off  that  end  at 
the  mark,  taking  care  to  maintain  right  angles.  Then  gauge 
and  plane  the  rough  side  and  rough  edge  to  a  width  of  \  in. 
and  a  thickness  of  |  in.  Then  choose  one  edge  for  the  top,  and, 

*  No.  12  (Paper  Knife)  appears,  for  convenience  of  illustration,  on  page  41,  but 
it  should  be  proceeded  with  before  No.  1 3. 


38  HAND-CRAFT. 

along  the  centre  of  that  edge,  draw  a  line  from  c  to  c,  as  shown  in 
Fig.  i  of  drawings  No.  13,  and  continue  the  line  to  the  extremities 
of  both  ends.  Then,  in  manner  described  for  No.  10,  gauge,  slit, 
and  cut  out  with  chisel  the  spaces  shown  in  the  same  Fig.  i  of 
drawings  No.  13,  from  a  to  a  and  b  to  b.  Then,  with  compasses, 
as  indicated  in  the  same  Fig.,  describe  on  both  sides  of  each  top 
corner,  the  segment  of  a  circle  represented  in  each  case  from  c  to  d. 
Then,  for  the  first  time,  resort  to  Concave  Chiselling,  and  with  a 
broad  chisel  cut  away  the  corners  down  to  the  segments  previously 
described.  This  process  requires  great  care  and  judgment.  Fix 
one  end  of  the  work  upwards  in  the  bench  screw,  with  the  top  side 
nearest  to  the  operator,  and,  after  taking  off  the  corner  to  a  con- 
siderable extent,  with  the  bevelled  side  of  the  chisel  towards  the 
wood,  shave  small  pieces  away  until  the  segment  marks  are 
reached,  taking  care  to  keep  the  whole  curve  at  right  angles  to  the 
sides  throughout,  Then,  turn  the  work,  and  dress  the  corner  at 
the  other  end  in  like  manner.  Then  file  judiciously  where  required, 
and  finish  with  sand-paper. 


Pen  Rest. 


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Flcwer  Pol  Cross. 


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Knife  Rest. 


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HAND-CRAFT.  41 

No.   12.     PAPER-KNIFE. 
(Requiring  Exercises  5,  7,  12,  8,  9,  10,  22,  16,  6,  23,  13,  and  24.) 

Cut  from  Beech  a  very  straight-grained  piece,  14  in.  long,  2 
in.  wide,  and  f  in.  thick.  Plane  one  side  and  one  edge  at  right 
angles.  Then,  on  the  planed  side,  to  the  size  and  shape  indicated, 
draw  the  whole  of  Fig.  i  of  drawings  No.  12,  letting  the  straight 
edge  serve  as  the  line  from  A  to  B.  With  the  smaller  turning 
saw  cut  round  all  the  curved  parts,  carefully  adhering  to  the  drawn 
figure.  Then  gauge  all  round  for  thickness,  as  shown  in  Fig.  2, 
plane  the  rough  side  down  to  the  gauge  lines,  and  with  the  knife 
trim  the  curved  edges  where  required.  With  the  set  gauge, 
mark  the  centre  of  the  straight  edge  from  A  to  B,  and  guided  by 
that  centre,  pare  down  each  corner  of  the  straight  edge,  so  as  to  make 
a  straight  chamfer  on  each  side  about  \  in.  wide,  terminating  with 
a  sharp  edge  at  the  place  where  the  gauge  line  was  drawn,  as 
shown  in  Fig.  2.  Pare  down  the  corners  of  both  chamfers,  and 
pare  each  side  symmetrically,  so  as  to  produce  a  blade  gradually 
diminishing  throughout  from  a  back  -fo  in.  thick  to  a  sharp  edge. 
Then  pare  down  the  end  of  the  back  to  a  lancet-shaped  point,  as 
shown  in  Fig.  2.  Round  the  corners  of  both  edges  of  the  handle, 
so  as  to  make  them  symmetrical  throughout,  and  also  pare  the 
corners  of  the  back  of  the  blade  so  as  to  round  it  on  both  sides 
very  slightly.  File  judiciously  with  a  light  hand  where  required, 
and  then,  for  the  first  time  using  the  scraper,  complete  the  blade 
with  great  care  by  scraping,  finishing  as  usual  with  sand-paper. 


42  HAND-CRAFT. 

No.   14.  BOWL  FOR  TOILETTE,  &c. 

(Requiring  Exercises  5,  7,  12,  8,  9,  10,  15,  26,  13,  28,  29, 
6,  and  24.) 

This  model  is  shown  in  the  perspective  Fig.  i  of  drawings 
No.  14.  Commence  for  it  by  cutting  from  Beech  a  piece  about  5 
in.  long,  3  in.  wide,  and  \\  in.  thick.  Plane  one  side  and  one 
edge  at  right  angles.  Then  gauge  for  a  thickness  of  i  in.  and 
plane  the  rough  side  to  the  gauge  lines.  Determine  by  choice 
which  side  shall  be  the  bottom  of  the  bowl  and  which  the  top. 
Find  the  centre  of  the  bottom  side  by  drawing  the  lines  from  A 
to  B  and  from  C  to  D  as  shown  in  Fig.  2.  Repeat  these  lines  on 
the  edges  and  top  side',  using  the  try  square.  Then,  on  the  bottom 
side,  with  compasses  and  square,  draw  the  whole  of  the  figures 
constituting  the  entire  diagram  shown  by  Fig.  2,  and  on  the  top 
side  draw  freehand  the  larger  oval  or  ellipse  diagram  shown  by 
Fig.  3,  being  guided  by  the  points  of  the  guide-lines  first  drawn 
for  the  purpose. 

Then,  with  the  turning  saw,  cut  round  by  the  line  of  the 
ellipse  on  the  top  side,  and  finish  the  edge  square  with  chisel  and 
file.  Then,  with  finger  and  pencil,  mark  a  line  about  \  in.  inside 
the  outer  edge  all  round  the  larger  ellipse.  With  a  £-in.  gouge 
cut  out  the  centre  so  as  to  form  the  inside  of  the  bowl,  the 
depth  and  shape  being  shown  by  the  dotted  lines  of  Fig  4. 


Tcup &r  Kmf 


N°I4< 
JSvwl  for  tvdclteor  writing tablt> 


HAND-CRAFT.  45 

Having  so  symmetrically  shaped  the  inside  and  made  it  as  smooth 
as  the  gouge  is  capable  of,  with  the  round  end  of  the  scraper 
dress  as  smoothly  as  possible,  and  finish  with  sand-paper,  before 
proceeding  with  the  bottom  side. 

To  complete  the  bottom  side,  leave  the  ellipse  in  the  centre 
untouched,  and  from  its  outline  to  the  outer  edge  of  the  lip  of  the 
bowl,  shave  with  the  knife  so  as  to  produce  in  all  directions  a 
curve  corresponding  to  those  at  each  end  of  Fig.  4.  Take  a 
shaving  off  the  flat  bottom  with  the  smoothing  plane,  so  as  to 
remove  the  compass  marks.  Then  file  judiciously  and  lightly 
where  required,  scrape  perfectly  smooth,  and  finish  with  sand- 
paper. 

V*  This  No.  14  is  a  very  interesting  study  and  a  keen  test  of 
application,  care,  and  skill,  anything  like  carelessness  being  sure  to 
leave  its  tell-tale  marks. 

No.   15.  HAMMER-HANDLE. 
(Requiring  Exercises  5,  7,  12,  8,  9,  22,  30,  4,  31,  2,  13,  and  24.) 

This  study  exercises  ability  in  the  mastery  of  elliptical  lines, 
and  in  the  use  of  the  spokeshave  in  Exercises  30  and  31. 

Cut  from  Beech  a  piece  about  13  in.  long,  i\  in.  wide,  and  i\ 
in.  thick.  Plane  one  side  and  one  edge  at  right  angles.  On  the 
smooth  side  thus  produced,  with  the  pencil  sketch  throughout  the 
whole  of  Fig.  i  of  drawings  No.  15.  Then,  with  the  turning  saw, 


46  HAND-CRAFT. 

cut  at  right  angles  to  the  curved  lines  on  both  edges  throughout, 
and  finish  the  shaping  with  the  spokeshave,  taking  care  to  main- 
tain right  angles.  Then,  on  one  of  the  edges,  with  pencil,  sketch 
throughout  the  whole  of  Fig.  2,  and,  with  saw  and  spokeshave, 
shape  both  sides  in  unison  with  that  sketch,  still  carefully 
maintaining  right  angles  throughout.  Then,  with  the  knife,  shave 
off  the  corners  so  as  so  make  four  symmetrical  chamfers  through- 
out. Then,  with  the  spokeshave,  remove  the  corners  of  the 
chamfers,  and  proceed  with  the  paring  down  until  the  required 
symmetrical  elliptical  shape  is  arrived  at,  as  shown  by  Figs.  1,2, 
and  3.  Saw  across  at  right  angles  at  each  end  to  the  exact  length, 
and  finish  with  file,  scraper,  and  sand-paper. 


No.  1 6.  HANDLE  FOR  CHISEL  OR  FILE. 
(Requiring  Exercises  5,  7,  8,  9,  10,  u,  33,  18,  6,  2,  13,  and  24.) 

From  Beech  cut  a  piece  6  in.  long,  2  in.  wide,  and  I  \  in.  thick. 
Plane  one  side  and  one  edge  at  right  angles.  Gauge  for  greatest 
width  shown  from  A  to  B  in  Fig.  i  of  drawings  No.  16,  and  also 
for  greatest  thickness  shown  by  A  to  B  in  Fig.  2.  Plane  the 
rough  side  and  edge  down  to  the  respective  gauge  lines,  thus 
producing  a  piece  of  equal  thickness  throughout,  with  the  sides 
and  edges  at  right  angles.  Saw  across  one  end  at  right  angles. 
On  the  face  thus  produced  on  that  end  sketch  Fig.  3  complete. 


J5.  Hamm&r ILandle< 


HAND-CRAFT.  49 

Fit  a  £-in.  Bit  to  the  Brace  and  bore  a  hole  in  the  centre  of  the  same 
end  to  the  depth  shown  by  the  dotted  lines  in  the  upper  part  of 
Fig.  i.  Plane  from  A  to  C  and  from  B  to  D,  thus  slightly 
tapering  the  sides  and  edges,  but  maintaining  right  angles  through- 
out. Measure  from  the  thin  flat  end  and  mark  the  length  of  5  in. 
Then,  from  the  centre  of  the  line  A  to  B  of  Fig.  T,  describe  a 
semicircle  on  each  side  as  shown  at  bottom  of  Fig.  i.  With 
turning  saw  and  chisel,  shape  each  side  of  that  end  to  the  semi- 
circle. Then  plane  off  the  angles  so  far  as  to  make  the  shape  in 
unison  throughout  with  Fig.  3,  presenting  sides  corresponding  to 
Fig.  i,  and  edges  corresponding  to  Fig.  2.  Then  complete  the 
shape  of  the  thick  end  with  knife,  as  shown  in  Fig.  2,  and 
finish  with  file,  scraper,  and  sand-paper. 


No.  17.  SPOON. 

(Requiring  Exercises  5,  19,  12,  8,  9,  10,  32,  22,  29,  14,  15,  26,  13, 
2,  8,  6,  24,  1 6,  and  i.) 

From  very  carefully  selected  Beech  cut  a  piece  10  in.  long, 
2^  in.  wide,  and  if  in.  thick.  Plane  one  side  and  one  edge  at 
right  angles.  Sketch  on  the  flat  edge  the  complete  outline  of  Fig. 
i  of  drawings  No.  17.  With  the  turning  saw,  cut  to  the  outline 
at  right  angles  on  the  upper  side  only,  completing  with  chisel  and 
file.  On  the  shaped  side  thus  produced,  make  a  centre  line  as 


50  HAND-CRAFT. 

shown  in  Fig.  2,  then  the  cross  lines'.  Then,  with  compasses  as 
guides  and  checks,  mark  the  outlines  of  the  handle  shown  in  Fig.  2, 
and,  with  freehand,  sketch  the  ellipse.  With  bits  and  brace  drill  a 
f-in.  hole  right  through  at  each  centre  marked  b,  and  a  f-in.  hole 
at  each  centre  marked  c.  Then,  with  the  turning  saw,  cut  to  the 
outline  at  right  angles  throughout,  completing  the  process  with 
gouge,  knife,  and  file.  Then,  in  the  manner  described  for  making 
the  inside  of  No.  14,  make  the  inside  of  the  Spoon  in  unison  with 
the  dotted  curve  of  Fig.  i. 

The  inside  of  the  Spoon  being  thus  completed,  proceed  with 
the  outside.  Mark  on  the  edge  the  outline  d  d  d  d  d  for  the  under 
side  of  the  spoon.  With  the  turning  saw,  cut  out  to  that  outline, 
and  round  with  the  knife,  as  shown  in  the  sections  of  Figs.  3,  4,  and 
5.  Take  care  to  keep  carefully  outside  the  lines  when  cutting  with 
the  knife,  and  apply  the  file,  scraper,  and  sand-paper  for  finishing. 

*»*  The  under  part  of  the  spoon  is  a  capital  exercise  in  model- 
ling with  the  knife,  and,  if  one  process  is  completed  before  the  next 
is  commenced,  requires  no  more  than  ordinary  application  and  care. 


No.  18.  CHOPPING- BOARD. 
(Requiring  Exercises  5,  12,  8,  9,  10,  14,  15,  26,  34,  13,  25,  and  24.) 

This  especially   involves  straight  and  square  planing.      Cut 
from  Deal  a  piece  20  in.  long,  6|  in.  wide,  and  i  in.  thick.     Plane 


d 


HAND-CRAFT.  53 

one  side  perfectly  level  and  one  edge  perfectly  straight  at  right 
angles.  Gauge  and  mark  for  width  at  5!  in.  Find  and  mark  the 
centre  line  A  to  B  in  Fig.  i  of  drawings  No.  18.  Set  the  com- 
passes to  a  radius  from  A  to  B,  and  describe,  with  A  for  the  centre, 
the  semicircle  shown  at  the  top  of  the  Fig.  Fit  a  i-in.  Centre-bit 
to  the  Brace,  and  drill  a  hole  with  A  for  the  centre,  taking  care 
that  it  goes  vertically  through  at  right  angles,  and  that  there  is  no 
splitting  when  the  bit  is  nearly  through.  With  the  small  turning 
saw,  cut  round  the  semicircle  at  right  angles,  and,  with  the  chisel, 
shave  off  and  round  the  two  corners  that  spring  from  the  semi- 
circle, also  at  right  angles.  Then,  measuring  from  the  centre  of 
the  rounded  end  at  B,  mark  the  entire  length  at  i6£  in.,  and,  with 
the  tenon  saw,  cut  off  at  the  mark  at  right  angles.  Then  shave 
and  round  at  right  angles  the  two  bottom  corners.  Plane 
the  bottom  edge  smooth,  and  file  the  edges  where  necessary. 
Set  the  gauge  at  f  in.,  mark  with  it  the  edge  all  round  for  thick- 
ness, and  plane  the  rough  side  down  to  the  mark,  perfectly  level 
throughout.  Then,  with  the  smoothing  plane,  take  a  thin  shaving 
from  the  first  side,  merely  enough  to  remove  the  marks,  taking 
care  to  maintain  an  accurate  level.  Finish  throughout  with  sand- 
paper. 

V  The  object  of  deferring  the  planing  of  the  second  side 
until  so  late  a  period,  is  that,  at  the  same  time,  minute  chipping 
and  roughness  of  edge  on  that  side,  almost  certain  to  result  from 
the  boring  and  sawing,  are  at  the  same  time  disposed  of. 


54  HAND-CRAFT. 

No.  19.  HALF- YARD  MEASURE. 

(In  the  original  Sloyd  model  this  is  a  half-metre  measure.) 

(Requiring  Exercises  5,  7,  12,  8,  9,  10,  25,  30,  15,  16,  6,  2,  13, 

and  24.) 

Select  from  Beech  an  exceptionally  straight-grained  piece  24 
in.  long,  i\  in.  wide,  and  f  in.  thick.  Plane  one  side  and  one  edge 
at  right  angles,  both  scrupulously  straight  and  even  ;  then  gauge, 
mark  to  a  nicety  for  \\  in.  wide  and  \  in.  thick,  and  plane  to  the  gauge 
marks  with  great  exactitude,  thus  producing  a  four-cornered  rod  of 
uniform  size  throughout.  Saw  across  one  end  at  right  angles. 
Measure  from  that  cut  end,  mark  the  length  of  1 8  in.,  and  saw  across 
at  the  mark.  Then  set  the  gauge  precisely  at  £  in.,  and,  passing  it 
along  each  edge,  mark  on  both  sides  for  the  lines  a  to  b  in  Fig.  i 
of  drawings  No  19,  continuing  the  lines  from  end  to  end  of  the 
entire  rod.  Then,  with  the  square,  mark  across  the  place  for  a  a, 
and  there  saw  a  slit  on  each  side  down  to  the  gauge  line.  Then 
proceed  to  the  first  exercise  in  Obstacle  Planing  (No.  25.)  Thus, 
pass  the  smooth  plane  along  each  edge  from  b  to  a,  as  far  as  the 
obstacle  of  the  corner  will  allow.  Of  course  the  planing  cannot 
be  continued  into  the  corners,  but,  whatever  is  left  by  the  plane 
must  be  got  out  by  the  chisel  and  file.  Then,  on  each  side,  sketch 
for  the  handle,  as  shown  in  Fig.  i,  the  gauge  line,  previously  there, 
forming  part  of  the  sketch.  Then,  with  the  turning-saw,  cut  out 


fi'fZ. 


i^y 


* 

h 


At?  18.  Eniie.'0rCkopping3carcl. 


HAND-CRAFT. 


57 


to  the  sketch  and  gauge  lines.  With  the  knife,  make  the 
chamfers  shown  in  Figs,  i  and  2.  Then  shave  the  corners  and 
round  the  end  of  the  handle,  as  shown  in  Fig.  i.  File  and  scrape 
lightly  where  required,  and  finish  with  sand-paper. 


No.  20.  SCOOP. 

(Requiring  Exercises  5,  19,  12,  9,  14,  7,  15,  26,  32,  33,  29, 
28,  13,  1 8,  6,  16,  2,  and  24.) 

Cut  from  Beech  a  carefully-selected  piece  1 1  in.  long,  3  in.  wide, 
and  3  in.  thick.  Plane  one  side  and  one  edge  at  right  angles,  with 
exceptional  care.  Then,  on  the  smooth  edge  sketch  the  outline  of 
the  upper  side  a  to  a  of  Fig.  i  of  drawings  No.  20.  Saw  to 
the  outline  at  right  angles  throughout,  afterwards  correcting  inac- 
curacies with  chisel  and  plane.  On  the  smooth  shaped  side 
thus  produced,  sketch  the  outline  of  Fig.  2.  With  i|-in.  centre  bit 
drill  the  holes  indicated  by  b  b,  right  through.  Saw  to  the  outline 
all  round,  carefully  maintaining  right  angles  throughout  and,  as 
before,  correcting  inaccuracies  with  chisel  and  plane. 

Then,  at  the  upper  edge  of  the  invisible  end  at  the  bottom  of 
Fig.  2,  find  the  centre  represented  by  c  in  Fig.  3.  Fix  compasses 
to  a  radius  from  c  to  dy  and,  from  the  centre  before  found,  describe 
a  semicircle,  and  from  the  same  centre  another  semicircle  with  a 
radius  about  I  in.  longer.  The  centre  of  the  inner  of  those  semi- 


58  HAND-CRAFT. 

circles  represents  the  bottom  of  the  inside  of  the  Scoop  at /of  Fig. 
i,  and  the  outer  one  represents  the  bottom  of  the  outside  at  the 
same  point 

Next,  with  £-in.  gouge,  make  a  furrow  just  inside  the  outline 
of  the  face  of  the  scoop,  as  previously  recommended  for  Model 
No.  1 7.  Then,  from  that  furrow  as  a  starting-point,  in  all  directions, 
with  f-gouge,  scoop  out  from  back  to  front,  to  the  depth  in- 
dicated by  the  dotted  line  of  Fig.  i,  and  to  the  width  at  front  of 
the  semicircle  previously  drawn  on  the  end,  but  gradually  diminish- 
ing the  inner  capacity  so  as  to  make  it  smallest  near  the  handle,  in 
about  the  same  proportion  as  indicated  for  the  bottom  by  the 
dotted  line  in  Fig.  i.  Then  file  and  scrape  inside  where  required, 
and  finish  so  far  with  sand-paper. 

Then,  upon  each  edge,  draw  the  outline  of  the  bottom  of 
the  Scoop,  shown  in  Fig.  i.  Saw  throughout  that  outline  at  right 
angles.  Then  from  e  to  f  plane  all  round  to  the  semicircle 
indicated  by  the  outer  line  of  Fig.  3  previously  described  on  the 
end.  Then,  with  the  knife,  cut  the  handle  to  the  section  indicated 
by  Fig.  4,  and  continue  the  shaping  to  e  as  indicated  by  the 
shaded  lines  of  Fig.  i.  File  the  handle  and  outside  of  Scoop 
where  required,  and  finish  with  sand-paper. 

*#*  The  most  difficult  part  of  this  model  is  that  shaded  in 
Fig.  i,  which  requires  special  attention  and  care. 


HAND-CRAFT.  61 


No.  21.  HANGING  PEGS  OR  RACK. 

(Requiring  Exercises  5,  7,  12,  8,  9,  10,  14,  15,  26,  13,  18,  4,26,37, 
29,  35,  39>  40,  and  42.) 

From  Deal  cut  out  two  pieces,  one  18  in.  long,  3^  in.  wide, 
and  |  in.  thick  ;  the  other  1 5  in.  long,  i  in.  wide,  and  |  in.  thick. 

Commencing  with  the  larger  piece,  plane  one  side  and  one 
edge  at  right  angles.  Then  gauge-mark  to  a  width  of  3  in.,  and 
plane  the  rough  edge  down  to  that  mark.  At  the  centre  of  the 
width  draw  a  line  from  end,  as  shown  in  Fig.  i,  /to  f.  On  that 
line,  with  compasses,  mark  the  points  indicated  by  a,  b,  c,  of  Fig. 
i  of  the  drawings  No.  21.  At  each  point  drill  a  f-in.  hole 
right  through,  taking  great  care  to  drill  vertically.  With  the 
square,  draw  the  cross  lines  at  d  d,  the  intersections  with  the 
central  line  forming  additional  central  points.  Set  compasses 
to  a  radius  of  £  in.,  and,  from  each  of  those  central  points, 
describe  a  semicircle  as  shown  in  the  Fig. ;  then  from  each 
of  the  same  central  points  describe  an  outer  semicircle  as  also 
shown  in  the  Fig.  With  tenon  saw  make  a  nick  at  each  of  the 
four  points  g,  in  each  case  reaching  to  the  outer  of  the  semicircles, 
each  nick  being  strictly  at  right  angles.  Then,  with  turning  saw, 
follow  the  line  of  each  of  the  outer  semicircles.  Then  dress  the  edges 
all  round  with  chisel  and  file  as  required.  Then  gauge-mark  all 
round  for  a  thickness  of  f  in.,  and  plane  the  rough  side  down  to  the 


62  HAND-CRAFT. 

mark,  evenly  throughout.  Gauge-mark  all  round  for  the  chamfer, 
in  the  proportion  shown  in  Fig.  i,  and  chamfer  to  the  mark  accord- 
ingly, using  the  plane  for  the  sides  and  the  knife  for  the  curves  and 
corners.  File  throughout  where  necessary,  and  finish  with  sand- 
paper. 

The  smaller  piece  of  Deal  being  to  make  the  pegs  with,  plane 
it  on  one  side  and  one  edge  at  right  angles,  then  gauge-mark  for 
a  width  of  f  in.  and  for  a  thickness  of  f  in.,  as  illustrated  in  section 
by  Fig.  4.  Saw  across  into  three  lengths  of  5  in.  each.  Place 
them  together  on  their  sides,  and  sketch  one  side  of  each  as  shown 
from  j  to  k  and  /  in  Fig.  3,  leaving  the  space  from  j  to  m 
untouched.  With  the  try  square  repeat  the  lines  of  this  sketch  on 
both  sides  of  each.  With  saw  and  knife  cut  each  peg  to  the 
sketch,  finishing  the  whole,  excepting  the  circular  plug.  Then  at 
the  inner  end,  find  the  centre  as  denoted  in  Fig.  4,  and,  using  the 
same  centre-bit  as  for  Fig.  i,  describe  a  circle  mark  as  dotted  in  Fig. 
4.  Then,  with  the  tenon  saw,  cut  by  the  "  shoulder  "  to  a  depth 
of  i  in.,  and  pare  the  circle  with  the  knife  to  the  shoulder  /,  so 
making"  a  round  plug,  a  little  too  large  to  go  into  the  holes  of  Fig.  i. 
Then,  with  the  file,  carefully  reduce  the  size  of  each  plug  so  as  to 
very  accurately  and  tightly  fit  one  hole  at  a  time  in  Fig  i,  where 
wedging  must  not  be  tolerated.  The  perfection  of  this  part  of  the 
work  is  to  be  tested  by  ascertaining  that  the  pegs  are  precisely  in 
a  line,  and  that  each  one  fits  all  round  to  the  face  of  the  board  into 
which  it  is  inserted. 


f/g-2 


s; 


HAND-CRAFT.  65 

Having  thus  fitted  each  plug  to  its  own  hole,  and  marked  it 
for  identification,  the  pegs  may  be  completed.  Cut  down  each 
one,  with  the  tenon  saw,  from  k  to  x,  and,  with  the  chisel,  pare 
down  from  j  to  k,  first  making  it  square  and  afterwards  slightly 
rounding  it,  as  shown  in  section  of  Fig.  4.  With  a  sharp  chisel 
cut  round  to  the  outside  of  the  semicircle  for  the  top  of  the  peg. 
File  this  round  and  then  cut  the  chamfer  with  the  knife.  File  as 
required,  and  finish  with  sand-paper. 

The  pegs  being  thus  made  ready  for  fixing,  clean  the  face  of 
the  board  (Fig.  i)  with  the  smooth  plane,  and  the  edges  and 
chamfers  with  sand-paper.  Then  glue  in  each  plug,  using  the  try 
square  to  make  sure  that  they  project  at  right  angles.  Then  put 
the  whole  away  for  not  less  than  six  hours,  to  allow  the  glue  to 
set  well.  Then,  as  each  plug  has  been  purposely  made  slightly 
too  long,  saw  off  each  projection  at  the  back,  and  smooth  the 
whole  of  the  back  with  the  plane,  so  effecting  the  finishing 
touches. 

To  avoid  the  necessity  for  nailing  to  the  wall,  get  two  pieces 
of  hoop-iron  about  i|  in.  long  and  J  in.  wide.  To  adapt  each 
piece  for  its  purpose,  cut  one  end  round  and  punch  in  a  nail -hole 
and  two  smaller  screw  holes,  as  shown  in  Fig.  i.  With  a  chisel 
cut  a  neat  recess  for  each  iron  so  that  it  can  be  sunk  flush  with  the 
back,  as  shown  in  Fig.  2,  and,  inserting  the  screws,  the  work  will 
be  complete. 


66  HAND-CRAFT. 

No.  22.  FLOWER- POT  STAND. 

(Requiring  Exercises  5,  7,  12,  8,  9,  10,  34,  20,  2,  i,  13,  41, 
42,  and  35.) 

This  is  an  especially  good  subject  for  straight  sawing,  straight 
planing,  and  nailing. 

Cut  from  Deal  a  piece  about  22  in.  long,  6  in.  wide,  and  i  in. 
thick.  With  the  jack-plane  face  one  side  and  one  edge  perfectly 
straight  and  true  at  right  angles.  Gauge-mark  for  if  in.  thick, 
and  plane  the  rough  side  down  to  the  gauge-line.  Square  one 
end  with  the  plane,  mark  to  length  shown  in  Fig.  i  of  drawings 
No.  22,  cut  with  tenon  saw  to  mark,  and  square  the  end  with 
smooth  plane.  Then  gauge-mark  for  thickness  of  lath  shown  in 
Fig.  4,  and  saw  off  a  shade  inside  the  guage-lines.  In  like  manner 
cut  five  laths,  and  plane  each  to  the  gauge  line. 

The  laths  being  thus  made,  sufficient  wood  will  be  left  for  the 
supports.  Make  the  width  of  the  supports  the  same  as  that  of  the 
laths.  After  gauging  and  planing  the  supports  to  depth  as  Fig.  4, 
saw  off  to  the  6-in.  length.  Square  the  ends  with  a  chisel  and  set 
out  on  each  the  distance  a  a,  Fig.  3.  Gauge  to  b  6,  Fig.  4,  and 
with  the  tenon  saw,  cut  to  the  gauge-line  at  a  a,  and  with  the 
knife  remove  the  piece  between  a  and  a.  Then  mark  on  each 
lath  the  distance  the  supports  are  from  each  end  of  the  laths, 
and  nail  on  the  laths — the  outside  laths  first,  then  the  centre 
one,  and  finally  the  other  two. 


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HAND-CRAFT.  69 

No.  23.  FOOT-STOOL. 

(Requiring  Exercises  5,  7,  12,  8,  9,  10,  3,  4,  15,  44,  32,  29,  14,  13, 
3,  5,  41,  and  42.) 

Cut  from  Deal  two  pieces,  one  12  in.  long,  6  in.  wide,  and 
1 1  in.  thick;  the  other  18  in.  long,  3^  in.  wide,  and  i  in.  thick. 

The  former  piece  is  for  the  laths,  and  it  must  be  prepared  and 
cut  as  in  No.  22,  making  each  lath  to  finish  i  in.  wide,  |  in.  thick, 
and  i  of  in.  long. 

The  wood  for  the  support  must  now  be  proceeded  with. 
Plane  one  side  and  one  edge  at  right  angles,  and  gauge-mark  for 
width  of  3  in.  and  thickness  of  if  in.  Plane  the  rough  side  and 
edge  down  to  the  gauge-marks.  Then  saw  through  the  centre  so 
as  to  make  two  pieces  of  f  in.  thickness  each.  Place  the  pieces 
side  by  side,  and  nail  them  together  with  two  i|-in.  wrought  nails, 
so  that  both  pieces  can  be  operated  upon  together.  Then  draw  on 
one  outer  side  the  diagram  shown  on  the  unshaded  part  of  Fig.  i 
of  drawings  No.  23,  and,  with  the  aid  of  try-square  and  compasses, 
repeat  the  diagram  on  the  other  outer  side.  Then  cut  off  each 
end  nearly  to  the  end  lines  of  the  diagrams,  and,  with  the  smooth- 
ing plane,  finish  at  perfect  right  angles.  Then,  with  a  f-in.  centre- 
bit,  drill  at  the  spots  marked  a  a  on  each  diagram,  penetrating  on 
one  side  a  little  more  than  an  inch,  and  finishing  by  drilling  from 
the  other  side  in  precise  unison.  The  drilling  throughout  must  be 


7o  HAND-CRAFT. 

exactly  vertical.  Then  proceed  with  the  arch  shown  in  Fig.  i, 
With  the  turning  saw  cutting  out  the  three  semicircles,  which 
finish  with  gouge  and  file,  taking  care  to  maintain  right  angles  at 
every  point.  Then  separate  the  pieces,  smooth  each  face  with  the 
smoothing  plane,  and  the  circular  parts  with  file  and  sand-paper. 

The  respective  parts  being  now  complete,  mark  on  each  lath 
the  distance  the  supports  are  from  the  ends  shown  in  Fig.  2. 
Then  nail  on  the  laths,  b  b  first,  c  next,  and  the  others  afterwards. 
Then,  having  first  taken  care  to  punch  down  all  the  nails  suffi- 
ciently, plane  a  few  shavings  off  the  tops  of  the  laths  to  make  them 
clean  and  level. 

%*  If  the  laths  are  well  and  truly  nailed  on,  their  ends  should 
be  in  perfect  line.  Any  defect  in  that  respect  must  be  remedied 
by  carefully  and  judiciously  planing ;  but  the  perfection  of  work 
is  when  no  such  planing  is  necessary. 

No.  24.  BOOK-CARRIER. 

(Requiring  Exercises  5,  12,  8,  9,  10,  3,  4,  15,  44,  32,  29,  14,  13,  3, 
5,  41,  and  42.) 

This  is  made  partly  in  hard  and  partly  in  soft  wood. 

For  the  handle,  cut  from  Beech  a  piece  8  in.  long,  2  in.  wide, 
and  |  in.  thick.  Plane  one  side  and  one  edge.  Then  gauge- 
mark  for  i  \  in.  wide  and  |  in.  thick,  and  plane  the  rough  side  and 
edge  down  to  each  gauge-mark.  Then  draw  on  one  side  the 
diagram  of  the  handle  shown  in  Fig.  i  of  drawings  No.  24.  With 


Kg  2. 


Jivolc  Carri&r 


HAND-CRAFT.  75 

the  turning  saw,  cut  to  the  inner  and  outer  lines  of  the  diagram. 
With  the  plane,  round  the  top  of  the  handle,  as  shown  in  Fig.  i, 
and,  with  the  knife,  round  and  smooth  the  other  parts,  taking  care 
that  all  the  right  angles  are  strictly  maintained.  Then,  with  an  \- 
in.  centre-bit,  drill  a  hole  for  each  screw,  as  shown  in  the  Fig., 
and,  with  the  knife,  counter-sink  for  the  heads  of  the  screws. 
With  the  knife,  make  the  chamfers  at  the  corners  of  the  curves, 
as  shown  in  Fig.  2,  and  finish  completely  with  scraper  and  sand- 
paper. 

The  handle  being  thus  finished,  cut  from  Deal  a  piece  24  in. 
long,  6 1  in.  wide,  and  |  in.  thick,  and  plane  one  side  and  one  edge 
at  right  angles.  Gauge-mark  for  6  in.  wide,  and  |  in.  thick,  and 
plane  the  rough  side  and  edge  down  to  the  gauge-marks.  Square 
one  end,  measuring  from  that  end,  saw  off  at  9  in.  On  the  larger  piece 
remaining,  draw  the  lines  a  b  and  a  b  in  the  positions  shown  in  Fig. 
2  ;  then,  with  the  compasses,  set  off  the  spaces  from  a  to  c  and 
from  a  to  c,  b  to  c  and  b  to  c,  a  to  d  and  a  to  d,  b  to  d  and  b  to  d. 
Then  set  the  gauge  to  half  the  thickness,  and  with  it  mark  the 
edges  on  the  four  places  indicated  in  each  case  from  c  to  d.  Set 
the  bevel  to  the  oblique  line  at  each  side  of  the  dovetails,  and 
transfer  this  bevelled  line  to  each  side  at  points  c  c  c  c  and  d  d  d  d 
Then,  with  tenon  saw,  cut  down  each  line  c  d  to  the  depth  of  the 
gauge  line,  and,  with  a  small  chisel,  remove  the  whole  of  the  pieces 
between  the  nicks  made  by  the  saw.  This  will  result  in  two  grooves 
for  dovetailed  tongues,  as  shown  above,  a  a  in  Fig.  i,  designed  to 
strengthen  and  prevent  from  warping  the  upper  half  of  the  holder. 


76  HAND-CRAFT. 

The  grooves  having  been  thus  made  ready,  the  dovetails 
must  be  prepared.  From  Deal  cut  two  pieces,  each  9  in.  long,  2| 
in.  wide,  and  £  in.  thick.  Plane  one  side  of  each  and  bevel  one 
edge  to  the  pitch  the  bevel  was  previously  set  for.  Then,  on  the 
planed  side,  mark  i\  in.  at  one  end,  \\  in.  at  the  other  end,  and 
take  to  that  width,  afterwards  bevelling  the  edge  as  before.  Then 
fit  each  of  the  tongues  provided,  driving  them  tight  into  their 
places.  When  they  fit  exactly,  glue  the  planed  side  and  the  edges, 
and  drive  them  to  their  positions,  being  careful  not  to  split  off  the 
ends.  Then  allow  time  for  the  glue  to  set,  and  cut  off  the  project- 
ing ends  of  the  tongues  and  plane  them  and  the  face  of  the  board 
to  a  level.  Cut  off  to  exact  length,  measuring  from  the  lines  a  b. 
Then  smooth  both  boards  with  the  plane,  nail  them  together  with 
two  small  nails,  and  square  the  ends.  Then  gauge  and  nick  with 
the  saw  for  the  recesses  e  e,  removing  the  wood  from  each  recess  with 
the  knife,  so  making  grooves  for  a  strap  to  pass  round.  Then 
screw  on  the  handle  in  the  manner  indicated  by  both  Figs.,  and 
finish  as  required  with  sand-paper. 

No.  25.  LADLE. 

(Requiring  Exercises  5,  19,  12,  9,  10,  32,  15,  33,  29,  14,  26,  28,  22, 
49,  31,  i,  6,  16,  13,  and  24.) 

Cut  from  Beech  a  piece  1 6  in.  long,  4  in.  wide,  and  4  in.  thick. 
The  manner  of  proceeding  resembles  that  required  for  No.  17. 
Plane  one  side  and  one  edge  at  right  angles,  and  draw  on  the  planed 


JV?  25     Ladle 


Kg  2. 


HAND-CRAFT.  79 

side  the  diagram  shown  in  Fig.  2  of  drawings  No.  25.  With  a  \\- 
in.  centre-bit,  drill  two  holes  right  through,  as  indicated  by  the 
dotted  circles.  Saw  round  the  outside  lines  of  the  diagram,  taking 
care  not  to  obliterate  the  lines.  Trim  exactly  to  the  lines  with  a 
chisel,  gouge,  and  file.  Then  mark  on  each  edge  the  upper  curved 
line  of  Fig.  i.  Saw  to  that  line  without  obliterating  it,  finishing 
with  spokeshave,  plane,  chisel,  and  file.  Then  cut  out  the  bowl  of 
the  ladle,  using  a  small  gouge  for  the  edge,  and  a  larger  one  for 
obtaining  the  depth,  which  must  be  governed  by  the  white  section 
shown  in  Fig.  3,  and  finished  with  file,  scraper,  and  sand-paper 
before  proceeding  with  the  under  side.  When  the  bowl  is  thus 
finished,  mark  on  each  side  the  curve  for  the  under  side  shown  in 
Fig.  i.  Saw  just  outside  the  line,  and  proceed  to  shape  the  under 
side — the  bowl  to  the  shaded  section  of  Fig.  3,  and  the  handle  to 
the  section  of  Fig.  4.  For  finishing  the  bowl,  fix  the  handle  in  the 
bench  screw,  and  pare  with  a  wide  chisel,  afterwards  applying  the 
knife  for  completing  the  bowl  and  handle.  For  the  finishing 
touches  use  the  file,  scraper,  and  sand-paper. 


END. 


TURNBULL  AND   SPEARS,   PRINTERS,  EDINBURGH. 
M.-G.— 3/90. 


This  book  is  DUE  on  the  last  date  stamped  belo\ 

JA.N  ?  2  1932 

NOV 
12 
6 

AUG  3     1959 
20 


Form  L-9-10m-5.'28 


UNIVERSITY  of  CAUFOKW4 

AT 

LOS  ANGELES 
LIBRARY 


TT 


E  NORMAL  SCHOOL 

3  ANGELES.  Oft; 


